Tuesday, August 20, 2013

Halvah Ma'amul

Rosewater + Halvah = Match made in Heaven


Ma'amul is a traditional semolina-rosewater biscuit with pockets of spiced fruit and nut. These biscuits have a Middle Eastern heritage and, like the region of their birth, they too have a controversial and embattled past, with the ability to cause much heated debate. Despite all this, I see these biscuits through rose coloured glasses and a tummy half full (of fragrant biscuits). The fact is the predominant flavour of these delicate, exotic biscuits is rose water. My expansive and detailed research* has revealed that one in three people despise rosewater (insert gasp of horror here. I know, it's shocking isn't it? They probably hate puppies and rainbows too). This research led to the creation of the "Rosewater Love-o-meter Test" which concluded with the following definitive result**: If you like Turkish delight and musk sticks, you will love Ma'amul.
*This study was conducted on no more than 3 people.
**Results may vary depending on people's taste (and the fact that no such research was ever conducted nor tested).

Now I mentioned that these biscuits have an embattled past, allow me to take a moment to explain how my cookie tray became an epic battle field. The original Ottolenghi recipe calls for a date, walnut and rosewater filling, however, I was desperate to create a more subtly sweet flavour which had wider appeal amongst the masses. I got to work creating a chocolate filling that was rich in flavour and malleable in texture, so that it could be rolled into balls and then pinched inside the semolina rosewater dough. Pleased with my problem solving skills, I popped 20 ma'amuls into the oven for 12 minutes and began to dream of these treats with chocolate centers rolled in rose flavoured dough. In the midst of dreaming, my mind was pulled back to reality by the insistent beeping of the timer. My mum happened to reach the oven first and I entered the kitchen to see her body blocking the oven like a bodyguard protecting a celeb from the flashing glare of paparazzi. Just like the paps, I managed to sneek a peek behind her waving arms just in time to see my beautiful ma'amul bubbling and exploding volcanic chocolate all over of the cookie tray, each other and my hopes and dreams.

A new day dawns a new opportunity for baking victory, and I refused to wave the white flag. This time half the biscuits were filled with three chocolate melts and the other half's filling was inspired by my gazing around the kitchen to find an ingredient that could be molded into balls. I spied a tub of Israeli Halvah (sesame seed based) that called out to me from the cupboard shelf. It was the hero of the day and it's subtle, earthy flavoured bonded with the rosewater dough to create a resounding ma'amul victory!

My advice for these sweet treats: get together with a group of like-minded rosewater-loving people, a pot of mint tea and enjoy the good life. Peace of cake, right?


 Ma'amul Dough (Adapted from Ottolenghi): 

350g semolina
40g plain flour
40g caster sugar
pinch of salt
180g unsalted butter cut into 3cm cubes
2 tbsp Cointreau liquor
1 tbsp rose water
1/2 tbsp water
icing sugar to finish

Put the semolina, flour, sugar and salt into a large mixing bowl and stir together using your hands. Add the butter and work with your fingers until the texture is like semi-course breadcrumbs. Add the cointreau, rose water and 1/2 tbsp water and use your hands to bring the mixture together into a ball. Remove to a clean surface and knead the dough until it is smooth (it will seem like it is impossible at first, but I found by dividing the dough in half and squeezing it between your hands at the start helps to speed the process). The dough will eventually become smooth after around 5 minutes of kneading (get ready for a workout, at least you will come out smelling like roses!). Cover the dough with a damp cloth and leave to rest for 30 minutes.

Filling:

50g Dark chocolate melts
Israeli Halvah (I used the one that comes in a block, then shaved off pieces) 

Preheat the oven to 190 degrees.

To make the ma'amul biscuits: Pinch off a tablespoon of the dough and roll into a ball. Flatten the ball into a disc shape in your hand. Lift the edges of the disc to form a little bowl, then place either a heaped teaspoon of Halvah or 3 choc melts into the center. Pinch the dough over the filling so that bowl in now sealed (again, at first this will seen impossible, but trust me - this dough is magical and stretches in such a way that I have never seen before). Roll the dough into a ball again and slightly flatten between the palms of your hands.

Place the biscuit onto a baking tray lined with baking paper and repeat the process until all the dough and filling is used (it makes around 30 biscuits). Bake for 13 minutes. The cookies will not turn brown but they will be firm to the touch. Remove from the oven and transfer to a cooling rack. Before serving, sprinkle generously with icing sugar.   

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